Lactic acid peel: for a smooth, fresh-looking complexion

Does your skin feel rough and look dull? Lactic acid can help loosen old cells from the skin. At the same time, it helps your skin retain water.

The key points in brief

• Lactic acid is a fruit acid and helps loosen old cells from the skin.
• At the same time, it helps your skin retain water.
• Start slowly and follow the instructions on the packaging.
• Sun protection belongs to it, as stated in the warnings of both products below.

What does lactic acid do in the skin?

Lactic acid is one of the fruit acids. Experts call them AHA. It helps loosen old cells right on top of the skin. Your skin can then feel smoother.

The salt of lactic acid is called lactate. It is naturally present in the top layer of your skin and helps bind water there. In a study with 40 people, the lactate content was linked to the water in the skin.

Then there are ceramides. These are fats in the skin that keep water in. In a laboratory study, skin cells with lactic acid formed more of them. In the same work, their share also increased on the skin, after lotions with lactic acid.

Who is it suitable for?

Lactic acid suits you if your skin looks rough, dry or dull.

Mature skin is also a topic. Two of the studies below specifically examined women aged 40 and over.

Have you never used acids in your care before? Then start slowly, with 2 to 3 applications a week. This is what the directions for use of the Exfoliation Accelerator state.

Who is it less suitable for?

If your skin is currently irritated or injured, wait with lactic acid. Cyspera writes for Neutralize: do not apply to damaged or irritated skin.

If your skin is prone to redness and burns quickly, be careful. On such skin, lactic acid can sting or burn. Researchers even use this as a test to identify sensitive skin.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding: please consult your doctor.

How to use it

1. Cleanse your face.
2. Apply a thin layer to your face and neck. Do not rinse off.
3. Then follow with serum and cream.
4. Start with 2 to 3 applications a week. If your skin tolerates this well, you increase slowly.
5. During the day, you apply sun protection with SPF 30 or higher, every day.

These steps follow the information for the Exfoliation Accelerator. The time of day is stated in the instructions on your packaging.

Why sun protection? Besides lactic acid, the Exfoliation Accelerator also contains glycolic acid. According to the warning, it can make the skin more sensitive to light.

On glycolic acid, there is a study with 29 people. For 4 weeks, 10 % glycolic acid was applied to their backs, after which the skin was more sensitive to UV light. One week after the end, no difference was measurable any more.

Good to combine, better not together

Good together:

• Serum and cream: they go on the skin after the peel.
• Sun protection during the day: it is stated in the warnings of both products below.

Better not together:

• Retinol: according to the product information, retinol and acid belong on different days.
• Two peels on one day: according to the directions for use for the Radiance Duo from ZO Skin Health, they belong on different days.

What you can expect

In a study with 56 women over 50, a lotion with 15 % lactic acid and ceramides was applied to dry, rough shins. They used it twice a day for 14 days. After 2 and after 14 days, the researchers saw less dry skin than at the area without care.

In another study, the participants applied lactic acid twice a day for 3 months, at 5 or 12 %. In both groups, the researchers saw smoother skin, and lines and fine wrinkles looked softer.

In a study with 74 women between 40 and 70, the women applied a cream to the face and arms twice a day for 22 weeks. It contained 8 % lactic acid, 8 % glycolic acid or no active ingredient. With lactic acid, the researchers saw in 71 % of the women that the signs of skin ageing caused by the sun on the face became at least one level milder, without the active ingredient in 40 %. The authors of the study describe the benefit as modest.

For you, this means: each result applies to the cream tested. How much lactic acid the products below contain is not stated in the product information.

In our shop

You can find more products in our Lactic acid collection. These two contain lactic acid according to their ingredient list:

• Exfoliation Accelerator from ZO Skin Health: peel with glycolic acid and lactic acid, plus chamomile, green tea and aloe. You do not rinse it off, it stays on the skin.
• Cyspera Neutralize from Cyspera: the second step after Cyspera Intensive, the care for pigmentation spots. You apply it directly after washing off. It is developed to calm the skin afterwards.

Frequently asked questions

What is lactic acid?

Lactic acid is a fruit acid, AHA for short. On the ingredient list, it is called Lactic Acid.

What are AHA and BHA?

AHAs are fruit acids such as glycolic acid and lactic acid. In skincare, BHA refers to salicylic acid. It dissolves in fat and therefore suits sebum-rich skin. According to the warnings in our shop, products with glycolic acid or salicylic acid can make the skin more sensitive to light.

Which peel for very sensitive skin?

Start with a few applications a week and only increase if your skin stays calm. On sensitive skin, lactic acid can sting. If your skin is currently irritated, wait. If it burns with every attempt, talk to your dermatologist.

How often should you exfoliate your face?

With the Exfoliation Accelerator, you start with 2 to 3 applications a week. If your skin tolerates this well, according to the directions for use you can increase up to every day. If you also use retinol, you put the two on different days.

Sources

1. Kornhauser A, Coelho SG, Hearing VJ (2010): Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 3:135-142. DOI 10.2147/CCID.S9042, PMID 21437068.
2. Nakagawa N, Sakai S, Matsumoto M et al. (2004): Relationship between NMF (lactate and potassium) content and the physical properties of the stratum corneum in healthy subjects. Journal of Investigative Dermatology 122(3):755-763. DOI 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.22317.x, PMID 15086563.
3. Rawlings AV, Davies A, Carlomusto M et al. (1996): Effect of lactic acid isomers on keratinocyte ceramide synthesis, stratum corneum lipid levels and stratum corneum barrier function. Archives of Dermatological Research 288(7):383-390. DOI 10.1007/BF02507107, PMID 8818186.
4. Pan Y, Ma X, Song Y et al. (2021): Questionnaire and Lactic Acid Sting Test Play Different Role on the Assessment of Sensitive Skin: A Cross-sectional Study. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology 14:1215-1225. DOI 10.2147/CCID.S325166, PMID 34548802.
5. Kaidbey K, Sutherland B, Bennett P et al. (2003): Topical glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light. Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine 19(1):21-27. DOI 10.1034/j.1600-0781.2003.00013.x, PMID 12713551.
6. Draelos ZD, Hall S, Munsick C (2020): A 14-day Controlled Study Assessing Qualitative Improvement with 15% Lactic Acid and Ceramides in Skin Moisturization and Desquamation. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology 13(8):E54-E58. PMID 33178384, PMCID PMC7595367.
7. Smith WP (1996): Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 35(3 Pt 1):388-391. DOI 10.1016/s0190-9622(96)90602-7, PMID 8784274.
8. Stiller MJ, Bartolone J, Stern R et al. (1996): Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. A double-blind vehicle-controlled clinical trial. Archives of Dermatology 132(6):631-636. PMID 8651713.