Niacinamide: the vitamin for an even-looking complexion

Dark spots, first fine lines, a complexion that looks slightly dull: a vitamin can add to your care here. Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 and can contribute to an even-looking complexion. You can use it morning and evening.

The key points in brief

• Niacinamide is vitamin B3 and is found in serums, creams, cleansers and sun protection.
• It can support your skin's protective layer and visibly soften dark spots.
• Allow time: the human studies in this text ran for 4 to 12 weeks.

What does niacinamide do in the skin?

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3. On the ingredient list, the INCI, it appears as Niacinamide. In laboratory studies it shows two sides.

The first is the protective layer. Right at the top, your skin holds on to water with fats, the ceramides. They hold the cells together like mortar holds the bricks of a wall. In a laboratory study, skin cells with niacinamide formed more ceramides.

The second is pigment. It is formed in its own cells and moves from there into the skin cells above. In a laboratory study, niacinamide slowed down this pathway. This is how the researchers explain why dark spots can look lighter over time.

Who is it suitable for?

Does your complexion look uneven, with dark spots or red areas? Then niacinamide fits well into your routine.

Does your skin get shiny quickly? In 50 participants from Japan, researchers measured less sebum after 4 weeks with niacinamide.

Is your skin sensitive? According to the product information, the All Calm Serum is intended for this.

Who is it less suitable for?

Do you expect a result after a few days? Better count on weeks.

Is your skin currently irritated or sore? Some products with niacinamide also contain acids or retinol. For the All Calm Serum, the manufacturer advises in case of irritation: use it less often or pause.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding: please consult your doctor.

How to use it

1. Cleanse your face, morning and evening.
2. Apply your serum with niacinamide to clean skin, in the amount given in the directions for use.
3. Then follow with your cream.
4. In the morning, sun protection comes last, with at least the sun protection factor stated in the directions for your product.

Good to combine, better not together

Good together:

• Vitamin C: Brightalive from ZO Skin Health contains both in one cream.
• Hyaluronic acid: it binds water, niacinamide can support the protective layer. The Poly-Vitamin Serum contains both.
• Sun protection: the Face Shield products from Colorescience contain niacinamide themselves.

Better not together:

• Retinol at the same time as the All Calm Serum with glycolic acid: according to the product information, retinol then belongs in the evening and the serum in the morning.
• Salicylic acid or azelaic acid with the All Calm Serum: according to the product information, the skin can then exfoliate too strongly.

What you can expect

In a study with 50 women between 40 and 60 years of age, a care product with 5 percent niacinamide was applied to one half of the face for 12 weeks. The same care product without it was applied to the other half. On the side with niacinamide, the researchers observed a better appearance of fine lines, dark spots, red areas and a yellowish complexion.

In a study with 18 participants from Japan, there were fewer dark spots after 4 weeks with 5 percent niacinamide than with the care product without the active ingredient.

In 30 women, a care product with 4 percent niacinamide was applied to the fine lines around one eye for 8 weeks. In 64 percent, the researchers saw a clear to moderate improvement, stronger than on the side without the active ingredient.

On shine: in 50 participants from Japan, researchers measured less sebum after 2 and 4 weeks with 2 percent niacinamide than in 50 with a care product without the active ingredient.

For you, this means: each result applies to the care product tested. The manufacturers do not state how much niacinamide our products contain.

In our shop

You can find all products in our Niacinamide collection. These four contain niacinamide according to their ingredient list:

• Brightalive Skin Brightener from ZO Skin Health: cream with niacinamide, vitamin C and tranexamic acid, for an even-looking complexion.
• All Calm Multi-Correction Serum from Colorescience: serum with niacinamide and bisabolol, for sensitive skin prone to redness.
• Poly-Vitamin Serum from iS Clinical: serum with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E and retinol, for dry and mature skin.
• Face Shield Matte SPF 50 from Colorescience: sun protection with niacinamide and a matte finish, for sebum-rich and combination skin.

Frequently asked questions

When should you use niacinamide?

That depends on the product: All Calm Serum, Poly-Vitamin Serum and Brightalive are intended for morning and evening, the Face Shield for the morning.

Can you combine niacinamide and retinol?

Yes. The Poly-Vitamin Serum from iS Clinical contains both in one bottle. For the All Calm Serum with glycolic acid, the product information states: retinol in the evening, the serum in the morning.

Which is better, hyaluronic acid or niacinamide?

Both have different tasks. Hyaluronic acid binds water and gives moisture. Niacinamide can support the protective layer and an even-looking complexion. You can use both.

Is niacinamide good for wrinkles?

It can visibly soften fine lines. In two studies with 50 and with 30 women, the researchers saw softer fine lines after 8 to 12 weeks than on the side without the active ingredient.

What are the downsides of niacinamide?

In two studies with 50 and with 30 women, it was well tolerated. In the study with 30 women, one stopped because of mild irritation. If your product also contains acids or retinol, apply sun protection during the day.

Sources

1. Bissett DL, Miyamoto K, Sun P, Li J, Berge CA (2004): Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 26(5):231-238. DOI 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00228.x, PMID 18492135.
2. Hakozaki T, Minwalla L, Zhuang J et al. (2002): The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology 147(1):20-31. DOI 10.1046/j.1365-2133.2002.04834.x, PMID 12100180.
3. Tanno O, Ota Y, Kitamura N, Katsube T, Inoue S (2000): Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology 143(3):524-531. DOI 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2000.03705.x, PMID 10971324.
4. Kawada A, Konishi N, Oiso N, Kawara S, Date A (2008): Evaluation of anti-wrinkle effects of a novel cosmetic containing niacinamide. Journal of Dermatology 35(10):637-642. DOI 10.1111/j.1346-8138.2008.00537.x, PMID 19017042.
5. Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K (2006): The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production. Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy 8(2):96-101. DOI 10.1080/14764170600717704, PMID 16766489.