Peptides: what they can do for fine lines

Over the years, fine lines around the eyes and mouth become more visible. Peptides are found in serums, eye care and creams for exactly this skin. Here you can read what they can do, how to apply them and what studies have seen.

The key points in brief

• Peptides are short chains of protein building blocks.
• They can support a firmer skin feel and visibly soften fine lines.
• You can use them morning and evening, after cleansing and before your cream.
• The human studies we have read are small, and their results differ.

What do peptides do in the skin?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids. These are the building blocks of protein. It is like a string of pearls: a few pearls are a peptide, a very long string is a protein such as collagen. Collagen keeps your skin firm.

You can read the name. Tri means 3, hexa means 6, octa means 8. The number after the hyphen is only a number, not an amount.

Experts divide peptides into 4 groups. Some give cells a signal, some slow down enzymes that break down collagen. Others bring copper into the skin, still others target nerves on small muscles that form expression lines.

Important for you: many peptides are large and love water. That is why they have difficulty getting through the top layer of the skin. How deep they work has not yet been well established.

Who are they suitable for?

Peptides suit you if you see first lines and want your skin to look firmer. This applies to the face, neck and the delicate skin around the eyes.

Peptides are neither acids nor retinol. For 3 of the 4 products below, there are no special warnings.

Do you already use retinol? Peptides fit into the same routine.

Who are they less suitable for?

If you expect an effect like that of an injection for wrinkles, you will be disappointed. A review considers it unlikely that Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 from a cream reaches the muscles.

If you are looking for care that removes wrinkles, peptides are not the right choice. They can visibly soften fine lines.

The Youth Eye Complex also contains retinyl palmitate, a form of vitamin A. Pregnancy and breastfeeding: please consult your doctor.

How to use them

Stay with one brand: you do not mix serum, eye care and cream from ZO Skin Health, iS Clinical and mesoestetic in one routine.

1. Cleanse your face.
2. Apply the serum, depending on the product 1 to 2 pumps or a pea-sized amount.
3. For the eyes, half a pump is enough. Pat it around the eye with your ring finger, avoiding the lids and inner corners of the eyes.
4. Then comes the cream. Massage it in with upward movements.
5. In the morning, sun protection with sun protection factor 30 or higher follows last.

Morning or evening? Both work. If the manufacturer specifies a time of day, that applies.

Good to combine, better not together

Good together:

• Hyaluronic acid: it binds water. All 4 products below already contain it.
• Retinol in the evening: the Pep Up Serum goes on the skin as the first layer, retinol afterwards.

Better not together:

• Mixing peptides and retinol in your hand: for the Peptide Facial Refining Concentrate, apply them one after the other.

What you can expect

Peptides need patience. Plan for several weeks, which is also how long the studies below ran.

In a study with 24 volunteers, 4 groups received a care product for 60 days: with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, with Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, with both or without a peptide. A device measured the fine structure of the skin. For both peptides, the researchers reported fewer fine lines.

In another study, 19 women used a serum morning and evening for 4 weeks. Only on one side of the face did it contain Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. The study found no clear difference between the sides.

In 50 people, a serum with Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and other active ingredients was applied to the skin for 12 weeks. Afterwards, the study team saw the wrinkles less clearly than at the start.

For you, this means: each result applies only to the formulation tested. We do not know the amounts in our products.

In our shop

You can find all products in our Peptides collection. These four contain peptides according to their ingredient list:

• Peptide Facial Refining Concentrate from ZO Skin Health: serum with 4 peptides, including Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Octapeptide-3, for face, neck and jawline.
• Pep Up Collagen Boost Face & Neck Serum from Colorescience: serum with 10 peptides, including Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Copper Tripeptide-1, also for neck and décolleté.
• Youth Eye Complex from iS Clinical: eye care with Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Tripeptide-1 and Tripeptide-10 Citrulline. Sun protection belongs to it during the day.
• Age Element Firming Cream from mesoestetic: cream with Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2 and four forms of hyaluronic acid, for a firmer skin feel with mature skin.

Frequently asked questions

What types of peptides are there?

Experts distinguish 4 groups: signal peptides, peptides that slow down enzymes, peptides that carry substances, and peptides that target nerves on muscles. Copper Tripeptide-1 carries copper. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 targets expression lines.

Can you combine peptides and retinol?

Yes. Apply the products one after the other and do not mix them in your hand. With retinol, sun protection belongs to it during the day.

Which is better, ceramides or peptides?

Neither, they have different tasks. Ceramides are fats of the top skin layer and support the skin's protection. Peptides care for skin with first lines. You can use both in one routine.

Should peptides be used in the morning or evening?

Both work, as long as the manufacturer does not say otherwise. The Pep Up Serum is intended for morning and evening. In the morning, sun protection follows last.

Sources

1. Gorouhi F, Maibach HI (2009): Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 31(5):327-345. DOI 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2009.00490.x, PMID 19570099.
2. Zdrada-Nowak J, Surgiel-Gemza A, Szatkowska M (2025): Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 in Cosmeceuticals: A Review of Skin Permeability and Efficacy. International Journal of Molecular Sciences 26(12):5722. DOI 10.3390/ijms26125722, PMID 40565185.
3. Raikou V, Varvaresou A, Panderi I, Papageorgiou E (2017): The efficacy study of the combination of tripeptide-10-citrulline and acetyl hexapeptide-3. A prospective, randomized controlled study. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 16(2):271-278. DOI 10.1111/jocd.12314, PMID 28150423.
4. Henseler H (2023): Investigating the effects of Argireline in a skin serum containing hyaluronic acids on skin surface wrinkles using the Visia Complexion Analysis camera system for objective skin analysis. GMS Interdisciplinary Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery DGPW 12:Doc09. DOI 10.3205/iprs000179, PMID 38024099.
5. Zhu M, He X, Zhu Z et al. (2026): The effect of a serum containing acetyl hexapeptide-8, dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate and gluconolactone on skin biomarkers, wrinkles and skin texture: Ex vivo and clinical studies. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 48(5):913-925. DOI 10.1111/ics.70087, PMID 41668671.