Vitamin C: what it does for your skin in the morning

The sun puts strain on your skin every day. Vitamin C can support it in protecting itself against this. And it can contribute to a fresh, even-looking complexion.

The key points in brief

• Vitamin C neutralises aggressive particles that form in the skin through sun exposure.
• It can visibly soften dark spots and support an even-looking complexion.
• You apply it in the morning, before sun protection.
• It does not replace sun protection, it complements it.

What does vitamin C do in the skin?

Vitamin C is an antioxidant. This means: it neutralises free radicals. These are small, aggressive particles. They form in the skin when UV light hits it.

In addition, vitamin C helps the skin form collagen. These are the fibres that keep your skin firm and taut. And it can slow down the formation of melanin, the pigment of your skin. Dark spots develop from it.

On the ingredient list, pure vitamin C is called Ascorbic Acid. It is sensitive: in light it changes and turns yellow.

How much of it reaches the skin depends on the formulation. In tests on pig skin, pure vitamin C only got into the skin from very acidic solutions.

Who is it suitable for?

Vitamin C suits you if your skin looks dull or you have dark spots.

It also suits mature skin that has seen a lot of sun.

If you spend a lot of time outdoors, it complements your sun protection during the day.

Who is it less suitable for?

If your skin gets irritated quickly, start slowly. Rarely, vitamin C can sting, cause redness or dry out the skin. According to the product information for Super Serum Advance+: use it less often at first, then increase. In case of irritation, use it less often or take a break.

If you are looking for a replacement for sunscreen, vitamin C is not the right choice. It does not filter UV light.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding: please consult your doctor.

How to use it

This is how it works with AOX Ferulic:

1. Cleanse your face in the morning.
2. Put a few drops into the palm of your hand.
3. Spread them over your face and neck and gently pat them in.
4. Let the serum absorb before the next care product follows.
5. Finally, apply sun protection with sun protection factor 30 or higher.

For other products, follow what is stated on the packaging.

According to the product information, store AOX Ferulic in a dark, cool place. If the serum turns brown or orange, the vitamin C has changed.

Good to combine, better not together

Good together:

• Vitamin E and ferulic acid in the same bottle: in a laboratory study, vitamins C and E remained more stable this way.
• Sun protection: vitamin C neutralises free radicals, the sunscreen filters UV light.

Better not together:

• Retinol at the same time: according to the product information for AOX Ferulic and 10 % Vitamin C Self-Activating, do not apply at the same time, retinol belongs in the evening.
• A second serum with vitamin C alongside AOX Ferulic: according to the product information, too much, the skin can become irritated and red.

What you can expect

Count on weeks, not days. The three human studies here ran for 3 to 6 months.

In a study with 19 women and men between 36 and 72 years of age, 3 drops of vitamin C serum were applied to one half of the face daily for 3 months. The other half received a serum without the active ingredient. On the side with vitamin C, the researchers observed fewer fine lines and smoother skin.

In a second study, 10 people applied a gel with two forms of vitamin C to one half of the face for 12 weeks, and a gel without the active ingredient to the other. On the vitamin C side, the researchers saw fewer signs of skin ageing caused by the sun. Skin samples from 4 people showed indications of new collagen.

In a study with women, a cream with 5 % vitamin C was applied daily to the décolleté and arms for 6 months, and a cream without the active ingredient to the other side. In the examination and in the women's own assessment, the side with vitamin C performed better.

For you, this means: each result applies only to the formulation tested. So far there are few studies in humans, as one review summarises.

In our shop

You can find products with vitamin C in our Vitamin C collection. According to their ingredient list, these four contain pure vitamin C, that is, Ascorbic Acid:

• AOX Ferulic from mesoestetic: serum for the morning, with Ascorbic Acid, vitamin E and ferulic acid.
• Super Serum Advance+ from iS Clinical: serum with Ascorbic Acid and hyaluronic acid, for a smoother-looking complexion.
• 10 % Vitamin C Self-Activating from ZO Skin Health: combines Ascorbic Acid with the fat-soluble form Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, for a fresher-looking complexion.
• Illuminating AOX Serum from ZO Skin Health: light serum for the morning with Ascorbic Acid, as the last step before sun protection. According to the manufacturer, it also contains a small amount of retinyl palmitate, a vitamin A compound, but no retinol.

For all four, according to the warning or directions for use: sun protection of SPF 30 or higher during the day.

Frequently asked questions

What is a vitamin C serum good for?

In the morning, a vitamin C serum complements your skin's protection against the sun. It can support a fresh, even-looking complexion.

What does ascorbic acid do?

Ascorbic acid is pure vitamin C. It neutralises free radicals, helps the skin form collagen and can slow down melanin, the pigment of the skin.

Is vitamin C good for pigmentation spots?

Vitamin C can visibly soften dark spots because it can slow down the formation of melanin. According to one review, human studies on vitamin C are still limited. Apply sun protection every day as well.

Does vitamin C make the skin sensitive to light?

mesoestetic writes about AOX Ferulic: "This product contains vitamin C and can make the skin more sensitive to light." So always apply sun protection with sun protection factor 30 or higher during the day.

Sources

1. Traikovich SS (1999): Use of topical ascorbic acid and its effects on photodamaged skin topography. Archives of Otolaryngology, Head and Neck Surgery 125(10):1091-1098. DOI 10.1001/archotol.125.10.1091, PMID 10522500.
2. Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF (2002): Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatologic Surgery 28(3):231-236. DOI 10.1046/j.1524-4725.2002.01129.x, PMID 11896774.
3. Humbert PG, Haftek M, Creidi P et al. (2003): Topical ascorbic acid on photoaged skin. Clinical, topographical and ultrastructural evaluation: double-blind study vs. placebo. Experimental Dermatology 12(3):237-244. DOI 10.1034/j.1600-0625.2003.00008.x, PMID 12823436.
4. Pinnell SR, Yang H, Omar M et al. (2001): Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatologic Surgery 27(2):137-142. DOI 10.1046/j.1524-4725.2001.00264.x, PMID 11207686.
5. Lin FH, Lin JY, Gupta RD et al. (2005): Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology 125(4):826-832. DOI 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2005.23768.x, PMID 16185284.
6. Telang PS (2013): Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal 4(2):143-146. DOI 10.4103/2229-5178.110593, PMID 23741676.
7. Al-Niaimi F, Chiang NYZ (2017): Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology 10(7):14-17. PMID 29104718.