Salicylic Acid (BHA): How it works and what it's suitable for
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA). The crucial difference from AHA acids like glycolic acid is that it is fat-soluble and comedolytic. This means it can penetrate the sebum film into the pore and provide sebum control and pore refinement where water-based acids stop at the surface.
In the iS Clinical Active Serum (our bestseller across all brands), salicylic acid works together with glycolic acid and arbutin. This combination cleanses pores from within, exfoliates the surface, and can simultaneously reduce pigment irregularities. In the ZO Skin Health Complexion Renewal Pads, salicylic acid is applied directly to the pad surface - one swipe after cleansing, and the pore is clean.
Concentration: In cosmetic products, salicylic acid is typically present at 0.5-2%. The ZO Exfoliating Cleanser contains 2% in a cleanser that gently exfoliates with every use.
Dr. Niels Freitag particularly recommends salicylic acid for customers over 25 with adult acne. In our beauty salon in Cologne, we see that BHA is often better tolerated than benzoyl peroxide because it dries out the skin less. For inflamed pimples, it is the first active ingredient we incorporate into the routine.
Related categories: Salicylic acid combines well with Niacinamide (soothes the skin after BHA) and Retinol (but not on the same evening).
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Frequent questions about salicylic acid
What is the difference between salicylic acid and glycolic acid?
Salicylic acid (BHA) is oil-soluble and penetrates the pore - ideal for oily and blemish-prone skin. Glycolic acid (AHA) is water-soluble and works on the skin's surface - better for dull skin and fine lines. For blemish-prone skin with clogged pores, BHA is the first choice. For anti-aging without pore problems, AHA is often more suitable.
Can I use salicylic acid daily?
In low concentrations (0.5-1%), yes. Cleansers like ZO Exfoliating Cleanser or pads like Complexion Renewal Pads can be used daily. For higher concentrations or sensitive skin, start with 2-3 applications per week and observe.
Does salicylic acid help with blackheads?
Salicylic acid is the most effective cosmetic ingredient against blackheads. Because it is fat-soluble, it can penetrate the pore and dissolve the sebum plug that forms the blackhead. Regular use can prevent new blackheads.
Does salicylic acid dry out the skin?
Less than many think. Compared to benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid is gentler because it has anti-inflammatory properties. Nevertheless, moisturizing after use is important. Especially if you combine BHA with retinol, your skin needs the extra moisture.
Can I combine salicylic acid and retinol?
Yes, but not on the same evening. Both active ingredients exfoliate - together they can overwhelm the skin. Use alternately: BHA pads one evening, retinol the next. With ZO Skin Health, this separation is already built into the programs.