Retinol for fine lines: how to start the right way

Fine lines and small spots come with the years. Retinol can support your skin in looking smoother and more even. For this you need patience, a gentle start and sun protection every day.

The key points in brief

• Retinol is a form of vitamin A and can visibly soften fine lines.
• You start on a few evenings a week and then increase slowly.
• Redness and slight flaking in the first weeks are normal according to the manufacturer.
• Retinol makes the skin more sensitive to light, so sun protection belongs to your morning routine.

What does retinol do in the skin?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. It is a precursor of retinoic acid: retinoic acid is formed from retinol. Retinoic acid is the stronger relative and irritates the skin considerably more. For you, this means: with retinol you use the milder form.

In skin samples from a study, researchers saw changes after 4 weeks of retinol similar to those with retinoic acid, mostly somewhat weaker. They observed a thicker upper skin layer and more precursors of collagen. Collagen is made of the fibres that keep your skin firm.

Who is it suitable for?

Retinol suits you if you would like to visibly soften fine lines or first wrinkles. Retinol also has its place if your skin has had a lot of sun and shows spots.

The studies below included middle-aged women, but also people with an average age of 87.

Does your skin get irritated quickly? Then start with an entry level, for example Skinretin 0,3 %, and only on a few evenings.

Who is it less suitable for?

If you do not want to apply sun protection every morning, retinol is not the right choice for you.

Are you planning a peel or microneedling at the cosmetics studio? Then pause retinol 3 to 4 days beforehand. This is stated in the directions for Radical Night Repair.

The manufacturers advise against use for children under 12 years. Pregnancy and breastfeeding: please consult your doctor.

How to use it

1. Cleanse your face in the evening and let the skin dry.
2. Take a small amount, as stated on the packaging.
3. Spread it over your face and neck. Avoid the eyes, nose, mouth and lips.
4. Start slowly, depending on the product on 2 to 3 evenings a week or every other evening. If your skin stays calm, you increase.
5. Once the retinol has absorbed, follow with your moisturiser.
6. Every morning, sun protection with sun protection factor 30 or higher goes on the skin.

If your skin becomes red and irritated for days, use retinol less often.

Good to combine, better not together

Good together:

• Moisturiser: it comes after the retinol and makes the start more comfortable.
• Sun protection and a serum with vitamin C in the morning: that way the retinol stays in the evening.

Better not together:

• An additional serum with vitamin C or exfoliating acids (AHA, BHA) on the same evening: according to the product information for Wrinkle + Texture Repair, this can overstimulate the skin.
• Other products with active ingredients on the same evening: according to the same information, a moisturiser is then enough.

What you can expect

Retinol takes time. Plan for several months, not a few days.

About the beginning, the manufacturers write: "Redness, flaking, dryness or a slight burning sensation are normal initial reactions to retinol."

In a study with 36 older people, the study team applied a lotion with retinol to one arm for 24 weeks. The other arm received the lotion without retinol. On the retinol side, the researchers observed fewer fine wrinkles.

In 57 middle-aged women, a cream with retinol was applied to one half of the face every evening for 26 weeks, and one without to the other. In 27 of 54 women, the researchers observed an improvement in fine lines on the retinol side, on the other side in 13. Three women stopped because of irritation.

In a study over 1 year, 62 participants used a care product with or without retinol. In the retinol group, the researchers observed more improvement in signs of sun in the skin at every point in time than without retinol. These included lines around the eyes and spots.

Each result applies to the care product tested, not to every product with retinol.

In our shop

You can find all products in our Retinol collection. These four contain retinol according to their ingredient list:

• Radical Night Repair from ZO Skin Health: serum for the evening. If you are new to retinol, you start with 2 evenings a week according to the directions for use.
• Wrinkle + Texture Repair from ZO Skin Health: cream with retinol and a peptide, for skin that already knows retinol.
• Retinol+ Emulsion 0.3 from iS Clinical: light emulsion with 0.3 % retinol, bakuchiol and hyaluronic acid for your start.
• Skinretin 0,3 % from mesoestetic: retinol with bakuchiol and centella for getting started, the level before Skinretin 1 %.

Frequently asked questions

Can you use retinol serum every day?

With Skinretin 0,3 %, yes, after a settling-in period: according to the directions for use, you apply it every other evening for the first 2 weeks, then daily if your skin tolerates it. With Retinol+ Emulsion 0.3, it is 2 to 3 evenings a week to start.

Can you use retinol in summer?

Yes, with sun protection. The manufacturers write: "Retinol increases the skin's sensitivity to light." So apply sun protection with sun protection factor 30 or higher every day.

Is 0.3 % retinol a lot?

With Skinretin, 0.3 % is the lower level. According to the product information, Skinretin 1 % is intended for skin that already tolerates 0.3 % well.

What is the downside of retinol?

At the beginning, the skin can become red and dry, flake or burn slightly. It also becomes more sensitive to light. With a slow start and sun protection, you will get through this time well.

Sources

1. Kafi R, Kwak HS, Schumacher WE et al. (2007): Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Archives of Dermatology 143(5):606-612. DOI 10.1001/archderm.143.5.606, PMID 17515510.
2. Kikuchi K, Suetake T, Kumasaka N, Tagami H (2009): Improvement of photoaged facial skin in middle-aged Japanese females by topical retinol (vitamin A alcohol): a vehicle-controlled, double-blind study. Journal of Dermatological Treatment 20(5):276-281. DOI 10.1080/09546630902973987, PMID 20078381.
3. Randhawa M, Rossetti D, Leyden JJ et al. (2015): One-year topical stabilized retinol treatment improves photodamaged skin in a double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology 14(3):271-280. PMID 25738849.
4. Kong R, Cui Y, Fisher GJ et al. (2016): A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 15(1):49-57. DOI 10.1111/jocd.12193, PMID 26578346.
5. Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V et al. (2006): Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging 1(4):327-348. DOI 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327, PMID 18046911.